Domaine Muré Pinot Gris Clos Saint Landelin Grand Cru Vorbourg 2016

This beautiful, almost dry pinot gris has really gained some grace and complexity through bottle age, with subtle candied-grapefruit and pineapple notes, plus hints of coconut and toasted nuts. In spite of the richness on the medium-to full-bodied palate, this retains a lightness of touch and the long, very elegant finish is full of toasty and nutty nuances that really hold your attention. Drink or hold.

Clos St Landelin is a south-facing, 12ha enclave in the finest sector of Grand Cru Vorbourg, a large site with limestone and loess soils. The clos, solely owned by Muré, is particularly stony and well drained. The nose features marzipan and apricot aromas, while the palate is equally rich, assertive and concentrated. Firm and dry, it shows abundant extract and grip, and a very long, saline finish.

The intense scent of ripe, yellow pear skin on this wine's nose holds juiciness, generosity and the promise of texture. You can almost smell the sunshine on this fruit The palate reins this in and presents a smooth, precise and well-proportioned body that is suffused with appetizing juiciness. There is a hint of fruit sweetness, but a whole lot of texture, too, so the just off-dry finish is a triumph of balance. The wine is rich but utterly precise and very long. Drink by 2045. Anne Krebiehl MW