M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois 2017

More blackberry, blueberry, violets, ground pepper, and flowers emerge from the 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape Croix De Bois, which is also all Grenache brought up in concrete. It's full-bodied, deep, seriously concentrated, has ample tannins, and a huge finish. This is another brilliant Grenache from Chapoutier that delivers everything you could want from the variety. Surprisingly, it’s less approachable than the Barbe Rac (which is normally the more structured wine) and will benefit from 4-5 years of bottle age.

Another 100% Grenache CdP, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Croix de Bois hints at garrigue on the nose, then eases into a dense, compact ball of dark fruit. Concentrated and tannic, this looks as if it will need five years or more to slowly unfurl its dense layers of dark berries, black olives, licorice and tea.

Deeply herbal nose with some dark chocolate notes alongside red cherry, plum and strawberry, just a hint of surmaturité to the fruit. Transparent ruby-plum in colour. Very rounded and full in body, with an internal sweet ripeness. Ample acidity and remarkably muscular tannins bring balance and length. The tannins have a noticeable grain and a slight dryness. This should age for longer than a typical Croix de Bois. From a vineyard with rolled stones and sandy clay near the town of Bédarrides in the east of the appellation, lieu-dit Croix de Bois. This is made from 58-year-old Grenache vines, all destemmed, fermented then matured for 18 months in concrete. Yields of just 11 hl/ha due to coulure. Drinking Window 2020 - 2029.

Dark-berry aromas here with licorice, graphite, star anise and cardamom. The palate has density and depth with layered tannins, soaked in ripe dark fruit. Try from 2024.