M. Chapoutier Saint Joseph Le Clos 2017

From a higher, east-facing vineyard, the 2017 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is almost black and is the most concentrated, powerful Saint Joseph in the vintage. Blackcurrants, cassis, kirsch, ground herbs, beef blood, burning embers, and new leather notes all emerge from this beast of a Saint Joseph that has incredible depth and richness, an Hermitage-like power and opulence, and a great finish. Give bottles 3-4 years and it should evolve gracefully for two decades. There are a tiny 228 cases produced.

The 2017 Saint-Joseph Le Clos takes intensity and richness in Saint-Joseph to virtually another level. Loaded with dense, ripe fruit from its facing slopes, it should prove to be a great, long-lived wine. Plum and blueberry notes merge seamlessly with crushed stone to create a concentrated, full-bodied wine, with terrific structure and length. No, Michel, I'm not giving this 100 points, but it is darn good, among the best St. Joes I've ever tasted.

Le Clos doesn't have the brightness and drinkability of Les Granits in 2017; it feels relatively over-extracted and heavy. Very spicy on the nose, with blackberry, prune and liquorice. Very full-bodied, very concentrated, with hefty tannins. There's a degree of freshness to the fruit and good balancing acidity. It's long in flavour, but not the most elegant. Made from 19-year-old Syrah vines planted on granite soils near Tournon. Completely destemmed, fermented in concrete then matured for 18 months in a large wooden tank, 28% of which is new oak. Yields of 24 hl/ha. Drinking Window 2023 - 2029.