William Fèvre Premier Cru Vaulorent 2017

A wealth of limes and lemons, in pithy and flinty mode here, as well as oyster shell and subtle biscuit spices. The palate has such succulent and taut, dry and pithy lemon flavor with breathtakingly pure resolve. This is striking. Drink or hold.

The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is a terrific effort that's one of the finest premier cru bottlings from Fèvre that I've ever tasted. Unwinding in the glass with a lively bouquet of fresh peach, green apples, spring blossom, oyster shell and wheat toast, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with exceptional concentration, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. Didier Séguier should be very proud of this weightless but intense Vaulorent, a wine that outshines plenty of grand cru Chablis this year.

Moins en vue que la montée-de-tonnerre, fermé et assez bougon le jour de notre dégustation, il possède pourtant une belle réserve de salinité. Patience, la finale offre un toucher soyeux.