Copinet EA Cuvée La Cocarde

The NV EA Brut Nature La Cocarde is from a terroir in Montgenost (Coteaux du Sézannais) where the vines are planted on an outcrop of chalk. The citrus colored Chardonnay offers a pure, discreet, rather ethereal bouquet with some minty lemon, sweet woodruff, spicy (cardamom) and dark chocolate notes on the first nose before chalky, bright fruit and blossom expressions shine through. On the palate, this is a dense, terribly fresh and firmly structured Blanc de Blancs from the southern part of the region. It has a tight if not austerely mineral finish and is only at the beginning of its (promising?) development. It's concentrated, persistent, extremely pure, salty, straight and fresh. Not charming but profound. Where will La Cocarde go from here? It's so contained, but the salinity and mineral grip are enormous.

La Cocarde is part of the new Blanc de Blancs trilogy that showcases three Chardonnays from the same (though strangely withheld) vintage but three different terroirs. They are all fermented in stainless steel and kept for seven years on the second lees. The date of disgorgement is not indicated, but each bottle carries a handwritten number and signature. The trilogy was presented for the first time during the Printemps de Champagne in Reims in April, but I tasted it only in my home office in July 2018.