Château Lafite Rothschild 2023 en Primeur

The finest of the first growths this year appears to be the 2023 Lafite Rothschild, a terrific effort that unwinds in the glass with deep and incipiently complex aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, lilac and violets mingled with hints of cigar wrapper and mint. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's vibrant and refined, with a deep core of fruit, plenty of sweet structuring tannin and a compelling marriage between energy and plenitude. It's a blend of 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot that reminds me of 2019's tannins combined with 2016's unimpeachable classicism. - William Kelley.

The purity of cabernet sauvignon is so evident here. It mesmerizes you with aromas of black and red currants, cedar, tobacco and bark. It's full-bodied yet there's very impressive weightlessness and agility, as well as subtlety and focus. Some iron and terra-cotta. Cedar and sandalwood undertones. Juicy and plummy at the end. 12.9% alcohol. 3.75 pH. A blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot.

The 2023 Château Lafite-Rothschild is based on 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, resting in 90% new French oak, with the balance in once-used barrels. It's another deeply hued barrel sample that has thrilling (and classic Lafite) aromatics of darker currants, freshly sharpened pencils, leather, flowers, and graphite. These all carry over to the palate, where the wine is medium to full-bodied and has a seamless, layered, elegant mouthfeel and ultra-fine tannins. I don’t see it hitting the heights of the 2018, 2019, or 2020, but it's an incredible wine in the vintage and is going to be an ultra-classic beauty from this château that will evolve for decades. The alcohol is a respectable 12.9% and the pH is 3.78. (Lafite always tends to have a higher pH.)

Quite a strong and intense nose, dark fruits, bramble, liquorice and dark chocolate. Some hints of perfume at the back. Lovely firmness and sense of youth, bright and buzzy, so much energy and liveliness. High acidity, piercing and direct gives this a sharpness but with bounce too, so it’s not too straight or too hard. The opposite of serious. Almost tart but then expands and with the powdery tannins giving weight towards the finish ending on a slightly herbal, spiced note. Vibrant with punchy red fruits; cranberry and strawberry. Energy but controlled and directed with good persistence, all in balance and harmonious. A great second wine. 12% press. 3.7pH. No Petit Verdot in the blend this year.